Woman’s jacket

English, about 1610–15, with later alterations
Linen plain weave, embroidered with silk and metallic threads and spangles; metallic bobbin lace

Undyed linen embroidered with silver and gilt-silver yarns and spangles in daffodil scroll pattern, trimmed with metallic lace. Reconstructed with non-matching linen ground.


Originally with a member of the Wodehouse family, Kimberley, Norfolk, England [see note 1]. Early 20th century, purchased at Acton Surrey, Bond Street, London by Elizabeth Day McCormick (b. 1873 – d. 1957), Chicago [see note 2]; 1943, gift of McCormick to the MFA. (Accession date: October 14, 1943)


[1] Possibly worn by Grizell Wodehouse (d. 1635), the wife of Sir Philip Wodehouse. According to family legend, the jacket belonged to Queen Elizabeth and was given as a gift when she visited the Kimberly estate in 1578 for the knighting of Roger Wodehouse (d. 1588), Phillip’s father. (See the “Elizabethan Inventories” by Leonard G. Bolingbroke, pg. 93; also, G. Townsend, MFA Bulletin, vol. XL, no. 238, April 1942, pg. 25-36). There is no evidence, however, that this provenance is true, particularly since the garment probably dates to after the queen’s death.

[2] According to a December 14th, 1941 letter from Elizabeth Day McCormick to Gertrude Townsend, the garment was said to be part of the “Kimberley Collection.”


Dior,Spring-Summer 2007, by John Galliano,Silk satin and faille embroidered with silk and crystals

Strapless evening dress (Look 27 from Origami Couture collection, Spring/Summer 2007) of white silk satin; with red faille drape around skirt and watteau-like back pleats; white satin embroidered with Swarowski crystals (embroidered by Montex) and red faille embroidered with green bamboo and Japanese decorative motives in thick twist silk (embroidered by Muller); White silk satin woven by Taroni (Como, Italy) and red faille woven by Veraseta (Charlieu, France). Created in the Couture Atelier of Dior, 300 hours of work.

Since being hired by Christian Dior in 1996, John Galliano’s designs for the Dior couture and ready-to-wear collections, as well as his eccentric personality, have brought increasing fame and profitability to the house. Galliano designed the dress Katisha-san for the Dior Spring/Summer 2007 Couture collection, drawing inspiration from the Puccini opera Madame Butterfly and from Japanese design. Here, Japanese decorative themes such as chrysanthemums and bamboo are paired with a silhouette reminiscent of the elaborate ball gowns of Christian Dior, demonstrating Galliano’s ability to combine diverse sources of inspiration and to create a dress of extraordinary beauty.


Detail from Alberta Ferretti Fall/Winter 2013 Fashion Show tartan coat.